Gray Matters

I am in a job search now and have been stressed about it. I have decided to take care of myself as my top regard. I am trying to remedy a back problem and it is important to my well-being to participate in certain sports and another game I play. I Swing and Zydeco dance, surf-kayak and I play a Chinese tile game called Mah Jonng.

Searching for work is a very stressful. The work I do is so beneficial for brain injury survivors. Why is it that adminisrations that do the hiring for health organizations don’t really have any sense of the individuals’ benefits from individualized healing work?

I have had stressers, job loss, a car wreck, an injured back…

Today is a good day, though. My back has reached a point where I can get back to what makes me feel good, kayak surfing!

I get to Swamis early in the morning to meet the guys I go out on the water with (all on waveskis). I’m saying to myself “Am I crazy? It’s freezing !!! (i.e. that is San Diego cold Because I had hurt my back in previous months, the gentlemen I surf with offered to carry my boat down and up the 140 steps to get out to the Swamis and Boneyards breaks. All I had to do was gear up and go down to the water and jump in my boat and paddle out to the surf. I was treated like a Princess of the Ocean!

After being out on the water for about 45 minutes, the exhillaration masked the stiffening of my fingers and hands. Then the sun broke out and the fun was accompanied by comfort.

So the previous weeks I have been wondering to myself if I’d be able to do an Eskimo Roll to save myself. So I get out to Swamis and in a calm break, I try a practice roll. In case you don’t know what an Eskimo roll, I supply you with visuals…

Eskimo Roll.MPG

I came up from my roll… Like riding a bike… My confidence was reassured… I see a set coming in and turn and start paddling. I caught my first wave (in almost a half of a year).

I dropped right into a 360… AND HEIDI’S BACK!!!!!!!

San Onofre and Swamis, surfing USA!

More tomorrow at San Onofre!!!